Natural Fabric: Wool, Cotton, Silk, Linen, Hemp, Ramie, Jute

Man Made Fabric: Acetate, Acrylic, Lastex, Nylon, Polyester, Rayon, Spandex

 

 Viscose: Created from a combination of natural and man-made components, viscose can also be made into the more common form of rayon that is used for many types of textile products, including clothing. Viscose rayon has a silky appearance and feel, and also has the ability to breathe in a manner similar to cotton weaves.

 

Cotton: Cotton is in the mallow family and produces delicate, lovely flowers. Other members of the mallow family include hollyhocks and hibiscus, used to brighten gardens all over the world. The cotton fiber forms around the seeds of the cotton plant and is designed to help carry the seeds long distances on the wind so that the plant can distribute itself. Early humans realized that the soft, fluffy fibers might be suitable for textile use and began to breed the plant, selecting for fluffy, easily spun varieties.

After harvesting, cotton must be combed to remove the seeds. This used to be a laborious process until the invention of the cotton gin, which quickly separates the seeds from the fiber and combs them for spinning. While a single cotton fiber is not terribly strong, when multiple curling fibers are straightened and twisted together, they form a strong, smooth thread that can be knitted or woven, as well as dyed.

Cotton is somewhat flammable, especially lighter cottons that hold a lot of air. Some cotton is chemically treated to reduce flammability. Many cottons are also blended with other natural fibers, such as linen, for particular properties, or to add texture and strength to the fiber. Cotton can be woven or knitted. It can also be turned into flannel, corduroy, muslin, and a variety of other fabrics used so universally that the American Cotton Council uses “the fabric of our lives” as a tag line.

 

Rayon: Rayon is the oldest manufactured fiber, having been in production since the 1880s in France, where it was originally developed as a cheap alternative to silk. Dupont Chemicals acquired the rights to the process in the 1920s and quickly turned rayon into a household word, churning out yards of the cheap, versatile fabric. Rayon drapes well, is easy to dye, and is highly absorbent, although it tends to age poorly. Many rayon products yellow with age and pill or form small balls and areas of roughness where the fabric is most heavily worn.

Rayon is used in a variety of textile applications, including shirts and skirts, and appears in both woven and knitted forms. The fabric has gained an unfair reputation because it is frequently used in cheaply constructed garments that do not stand up to heavy wear. However, rayon is an excellent, nicely draping alternative to silk and is frequently used in evening gowns and other flowing garments.

The manufacture of rayon begins with cellulose, frequently extracted from wood pulp, although any plant material with long molecular chains is suitable. The cellulose is steeped in caustic soda, which concentrates some of the cellulose into soda cellulose, which is then rolled or pressed to remove excess soda solution. After pressing, the cellulose is shredded into a substance called white crumb.

The white crumb is allowed to oxidize, forming shorter molecular chains, and treated with carbon disulfide. The soda cellulose reacts with this substance, forming yellow crumb due to inorganic compounds that emerge during the chemical process. This yellow crumb is dissolved in a caustic solution, which relaxes the hydrogen bonds in the cellulose, producing a highly viscous substance. This substance gives its name to the manufacturing process, called the viscose process.

This viscous fluid is allowed to age, breaking down the cellulose structures further to produce an even slurry, and then filtered to remove impurities. Small air pockets are forced out to ensure a strong, even fiber, and the mixture is forced through a spinner, which forms many even strands of fine thread that enter a setting solution to form cellulose filaments: also called rayon. The rayon is stretched to form a strong, even bond, washed, and then formed into rayon fabric.

 

Chiffon: Chiffon is a lightweight sheer material with a slightly rough feel to it. It can be made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers, but is usually associated with silk or nylon and can be dyed to almost any shade desired. If made from Polyester, it is difficult to dye. Under a magnifying glass it resembles a fine net or mesh which allows chiffon to have this see-through property.

Chiffon is most commonly used in evening wear, especially as an overlay, giving an elegant and floating appearance to the gown. It is also a popular fabric used in blouses, ribbons, scarves and lingerie. It is not, however, an easy fabric to work with because of its lightweight and slippery nature. Due to its delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently. It is very easy to tear inside a washing machine. A garment made of chiffon can rip apart while the wearer is sleeping in it. Most chiffon nowadays is made from polyester (for stain resistance) which is woven as a Stretch-knit fabric. Stretch-knit is a way of making non-stretchable fabrics stretch.

 

Hemp: Hemp is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.

 

Linen: elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Linen is from flax, a best fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber. These textiles can also be bleached, printed on, or finished with a number of treatments or coatings.

Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily. Modern linens are typically manufactured of natural fibers like cotton, silk, modal, and (sometimes) flax, as well as synthetic fibers including polyester, rayon, etc. Historically, linens were manufactured almost exclusively of fibers from the flax plant ("linum usitatisimum ") but also hemp, cotton and/or a blend of these fibers.

 

Satin: is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. A satin is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a "satin." If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered sateen.

A satin-woven fabric tends to have a high luster due to the high number of "floats" on the fabric. Floats are "missed" interlacings, where, the warp yarn lays on top of the weft yarn, or vice versa. The floats tend to make the fabric look glossier as well as give it a smoother hand in most cases.

Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave including a Granite weave and a Check weave. Satin weaves are used commonly in apparel goods such as eveningwear and fine clothing. They can also be found in linens, such as bedsheets as well as in some industrial usages and athletic gear such as shorts and baseball jackets

 

 

Polyester: is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.

Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing. Today polyester has improved so much that sometimes it even can feel like silk!

 

Silk: is a natural protein fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is obtained from the cocoon of silkworm larvae reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fibers' triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.

In addition to clothing manufacture and other handicrafts, silk is also used for items like parachutes, bicycle tires, comforter filling and artillery gunpowder bags. Early bulletproof vests were also made from silk in the era of black powder weapons until roughly World War I. Silk undergoes a special manufacturing process to make it adequate for its use in surgery as non-absorbable sutures. Chinese doctors have also used it to make prosthetic arteries. Silk cloth is also used as a material to write on.

Most silk fabrics can be hand washed. Technically, silk does not shrink like other fibers.  If the fabric is not tightly woven, washing a silk with tighten up the weave.... thus, lighter weights of silk (say a crepe de chine of 14 mm) can be improved by washing as it will tighten up the weave.  A tightly woven silk will not "shrink" or will "shrink" a lot less.  Silk garments, however, can shrink if the fabric has not been washed prior to garment construction. When washing silk, do not wring but roll in a towel. Silk dries quickly but should not be put in an automatic dryer unless the fabric is dried in an automatic dryer prior to garment construction. A good shampoo works well on silk. It will remove oil and revitalize your silk. Do not use an alkaline shampoo or one which contains ingredients such as wax, petroleum, or their derivatives, as these products will leave a residue on your silk and may cause "oil" spots. If static or clinging is a problem with your silks, a good hair conditioner (see above cautions) may be used in the rinse water.

Silk may yellow and fade with the use of a high iron setting. Press cloths and a steam iron are recommended. Silk is also weakened by sunlight and perspiration.

 

Spandex or Elastane: is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity (ability to stretch). It is stronger and more durable than rubber, its major non-synthetic competitor. It was invented in 1959 by DuPont chemist Joseph Shivers. When first introduced it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.

Spandex is the preferred name in North America and Australia, while elastane is most often used elsewhere, such as in Europe. It turns out that "spandex" was coined from an anagram of "expands." A well-known trademark for spandex or elastane is INVISTA's brand name Lycra®. Other trademarks include Elaspan (also INVISTA's), Dorlastan(Bayer) and Linel (Fillattice).

Spun from a block copolymer, these fibers exploit the high crystallinity and hardness of polyurethane segments, yet remain "rubbery" due to alternating segments of polyethylene glycol. This yields the following combination of materials properties:

• can be stretched over 500% without breaking
• able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length
• lightweight
• abrasion resistant
• poor strength, but stronger and more durable than rubber
• soft, smooth, and supple
• resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions, and detergents
• no static or pilling problems

The U.S. Federal Trade Commission definition for spandex fiber is "A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85 percent of a segmented polyurethane".

 

Taffeta: (sometimes spelled taffety) is a crisp, smooth woven fabric made from silk or synthetic fibers. The word is Persian in origin, and means "twisted woven". It is considered to be a "high end" fabric, suitable for use in ball gowns, wedding dresses and in interiors for curtains or wall covering. There are two distinct types of silk taffeta: yarn-dyed and piece-dyed. Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses. Whilst Silk Taffeta has been classically woven in Italy and France and until the 1950s in Japan, today most Silk Taffeta is produced in India. Originally this was produced on handlooms, but since the 1990s has been produced on the most modern looms in the Bangalore area. From the 1970s until the 1990s the Jiangsu province of China produced some fine Silk Taffetas. Unfortunately they were less flexible than the Indian mills who now dominate production. Other countries in South East Asia and the Middle East are weaving Silk Taffeta but not yet either at the quality or competiveness of India. The most deluxe Taffetas are still woven in France, Italy and the United Kingdom.

Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it its distinct feel. Velvet can be made from any fiber. It is woven on a special loom that weaves two pieces of velvet at the same time. The two pieces are then cut apart and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls.

Velvet's knitted counterpart is velour. Velvet was very expensive and was considered to be among the luxury goods together with silk. Corduroy and velveteen were considered the "poor man's velvet" when they were first produced.

Velvet is difficult to clean, but in modern times, dry cleaning is used.

 

Velveteen:  is a cotton cloth made in imitation of velvet. The term is sometimes applied to a mixture of silk and cotton. Some velveteens are a kind of fustian, having a rib of velvet pile alternating with a plain depression. The velveteen trade varies a good deal with the fashions that control the production of velvet.

 

Organza: is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from the continuous filament of silk yarns. Nowadays silk has been replaced by synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon. Many variations can be found of organza.

 

Acetate: is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn’t melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including Super Glue.

Acrylic: is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.

 

Nylon: Any of various materials made of synthetic polyamides (a type of nitrogen-containing polymer) is nylon. Nylon is very strong and elastic, and can be formed into fibers, sheets, or bristles. It is used to make fabrics, plastics, and molded products.  But is not resistant to heat

Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.

 

Wool wool fabric is usually derived from sheep. Wool is taken from animals in the Caprinae family, principally sheep, but the hair of certain species of other mammals is also sometimes called "wool", including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, vicuña, alpaca, and camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits.

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped, it has a different texture or handle, it is elastic

Wool's scaling and crimp make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach to each other, so that they stay together. Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have a greater bulk than other textiles, and retain air, which causes the product to retain heat. Insulation also works both ways; Bedouins and Tuaregs use wool clothes to keep the heat out.